An enlightening session on Day 2 of ALKF 2024 titled ‘Table Talk: On building a culture of food’had speakers including food writer Sonal Ved, writer, cook and media personality Maria Goretti, Indian culture enthusiast Shalini Modi and Founder of Ginger and Spice Festival Julia Roberts. This exciting session was moderated by celebrated chef Shaun Kenworthy. Revolving around food, the gastronomic appeal and the associated culture, the speakers discussed how the journey of Indian food is tied to its culture.
Moderator Shaun Kenworthy started by remarking that food is an intricate part of our culture, especially in India. The first question posed to the panel was how they connected food with culture. As a response, Maria Goretti said, “We still gather around the table to eat in India. Everything we do in India, from celebrating festivals to daily events, includes food. Food is where our culture starts.” Speaking on her book, she mentioned how her primary goal in writing the book was to be more inclusive.” She wants her recipes to be more accessible and look exactly like they are picturized in the book. The ingredients are simple and can easily be availed.
Based on this response, Shalini Modi responded that in ancient scriptures of Indian civilization, “we find mentions of rishis and sages spending days, surviving on roots, fruits and shrubs. This indicates different representations of food in our Indian roots:” Panelists agreed that it is more important to be “mindful of what you eat”, rather than run after fads and diets.
Sonal Ved, who has published five cook and food-related books to date, pointed out how the food culture in India is plural. “There are 29 states in India that combine the micro cuisines in each state, making Indian food culture heavily pluralistic.” She explained how difficult it is to put something as vast as Indian food culture into a single bracket. “Not just a region, the entire nation is a foodie.” For her, the future of Indian food relies on “exploration”, and as a civilization thousands of years old, experimenting and exploring is how it can survive.
Julia Roberts founded a food festival in a small town in the UK named ‘Ginger and Spice’ and represented the UK food culture and experience at the panel. She started with what prompted her to start the festival and how local cuisines and cooks from the small towns needed to be paid their dues. She agreed that the UK has a “massive hype for celebrity chefs” and, in the process, misses out on the art of localized cuisines. Speaking on the hybridity of UK cuisine, she mentioned how, in London specifically, we will find cuisines from all over the world. This in itself is a cultural aspect we need to consider.
